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Master Padlocks PDF Print E-mail
Residential Hardware
Written by Harold Fink Locksmith CRL CPS   
Sunday, 14 March 2010 11:04

Master Locks

Master Lock Products


Master lock Company, a Unit of MasterBrand Industries, inc. is the world's leading producer of padlocks. More than 1,500 employees are involved in the production of padlocks at an 800,000 sq. ft. facility in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
The Master Lock Company was founded in 1921 by a Wilwaukee locksmith, Hary Soref, who introduced the "Master laminated keyed padlock". A warded padlock, operated by a stamped key, had a body assembled of steel plates. In 1924, Soref received a patent for the lock and began the Master Lock factory. The "Secret Service" Padlock, known today simply as the Master No. 1 padlock, was introduced in 1931 and featured a pin tumbler lock cylinder. Two years later, Master Lock introduced the No.3 padlock. In the mid 1930's , Master introduced their version of the combination padlock. Over the years, Master has intoduced built-in combination locker locks, rekeyable padlocks, the series 900 padlock, the 2000 Series high security deadbolt combination locks and the pro Series line of commercial, rekeyable padlocks.Today, Master Lock Company produces padlocks, combination padlocks and specialty locks that protect trailers, outboard motors, guns, skis and bicycles.

Master Pro Series Padlocks

The Pro Series Padlocks come with a six-pin rekeyable lock cylinder that uses spool pins to resist picking. They are available with key-retaining or non-key retaining lock cylinder options. These weather-resistant padlocks use a dual ball bearing locking mechanism to secure the shackle legs. The boron alloy shackles are removable and available in a variety of lengths. There are three styles of Pro Series padlocks:laminated steel padlocks with shackle guard, solid steel round body padlocks, and laminated steel padlocks with thermoplastic cover.
The Pro Series padlocks have a variety of lock cylinder optional cylinder options. They include the padlock cylinders in 4,5,or 6 pin configuration to match existing padlocks. The Series 6400 and 6500 accept the following Original Equipment Manufacturer interchangeable cores from Best, Kaba Peaks, KSP, and Lori. The Series 6600 and 6700 accept OEM door hardware cylinders from Assa, Lori #1539 lock, Medeco #20W200, and Schlage Primus. The Lori #1539 lock cylinder can be ordered to match 28 manufacturer's keyways. Padlocks are supplied without covers or cylinders.

Master Lock Universal Keying System for Master Universal Padlocks

One of Master Lock Company's latest introductions is the universal keying system for Master Padlocks # 1UP, # 3UP, # 5UP, and entry and deadbolt locks. UP stands for universal padlock. The One Key System is designed to combinate a Master lock to an existing  customer's key. This eliminates the need to either rekey an entry or deadbolt lock or to special order a # 1, # 3, or # 5 padlock to a specific key code. The # 1UP, # 3UP and # 5UP padlocks are available with the standard and extended shackles. The padlocks are supplied without keys and will operate only after being fit to a cut Master 1K Key. The key must be pinned to Original Equipment Manufacturer's specifications. Keys whose depths of cuts are different from the original are not recommended.
The Master Lock One key System uses a modified lock cylinder equipped with specially designed shearing pins that replace the standard buttom and top pins. The pins have shear positions horizontally along their length. The tolerances of the lock cylinder and the shearing pins are extremely close, due to the positioning of the shearing. The One Key System lock cylinder plugs are designed to move into the housing approximately 0.125", shearing these pins into bottom and top pins. Once the pins have been sheared, they cannot be sheared a second time to accomodate a diferent key.
There are bottom plate markings that identify One Key System padlocks. The letters "UP" and the padlock size are stamped into the bottom plate. In addition, the cylinder has a groove in the face of the plug indicating it is a One Key System padlock. To set a UP, or universal padlock to your existing key, simply enter the key completely into the raised plug face of the cylinder, set the padlock shackle facing down between the jaws of your work bench vise, place Major Manufacturing's MKP-1, or similar tool squarely against the face of the plug with key in the slot, and place one firm blow with your hammer straight down against the tool. This tool will shear the pins in line with the cuts combinated on your existing key.

How to set Master Universal Padlocks without the keying tool

Don't have the MKP-1 Master Universal Padlock Keying Tool? No problem. I only recommend this if you don't have the recommended tool, because one of the benefits of using this specialty tool is its ease of use and very quick and efficient operation. It is very important that keys used are cut to specifications. If they are not, this procedure won't work, and the MKP-1 specialty tool won't work, either. However, if you don't have the MKP-1 or similar tool, you can set a UP padlock, or Master Universal Padlock, to your existing key using the following steps:

  1. Verify the key is cut to manufacturer's specifications. If it is not, then cut a key to the manufucturer's specifications using your code machine or whatever equipment you use to generate keys by code. If the key is not cut to manufacturer's specifications, ask your customer if they would bring at least one of the other locks being opened by their key, and verify that the key  you cut to specifications will operate that lock. If their key is cut to specs, simply duplicate it properly.
  2. Insert the duplicated key, or key cut to specifications, in the padlock, with the padlock shackle down between bench vise jaws. Make sure the key is inserted completely against the key shoulder.
  3. Mark the key with a scribe tool at the plug face, remove the key and cut it at the mark. Insert the key again. If there is any key material extending up past the plug, simply file it away to allow for proper placement of your punch, taking care not to cut into the plug face. You may want to read ahead to all steps before cutting the key.
  4. Use a punch tool of appropriate size and diameter to punch the plug down into the cylinder housing. The intention is to place one solid blow to the punch that is square against the face of the plug, using only one blow. Verify the face of the plug is now just below the surface of the padlock housing.
  5. Remove, or extract the key that remains in the plug with a key extractor, small screwdriver, or needle nose pliers on the remaining portion of key that exists in the groove of the UP padlock plug face. The precision with which you cut the key in step 3 will allow some of the key, including the shoulder, to be accessible by small srewdriver or extractor tools at the ends of the groove in the plug face. Carefully pry the shoulder of the key away from the plug and remove the key.
  6. Verify operation of the padlock with the original key from step 1.
Last Updated on Sunday, 14 March 2010 11:12
 
MacLock 1500 Blade Locking System PDF Print E-mail
Residential Hardware
Written by Harold Fink, Locksmith, CRL CPS   
Sunday, 31 January 2010 22:19

MacLock 1500 Blade Locking System

Residential High Security Locks without a Deadbolt


The commercial and residential door locking hardware industry has produced some significant product improvements over the years. Interchangeable cores, cylindrical locksets, patented key systems and lifetime finishes have all provided increased value to end users over the years. Improvements in mechanical locking mechanisms have included improvements with regard to unauthorized key duplication, or key control. Key control is often not a primary concern of homeowners, whereas resistance to brute force attacks often is. In fact, most lock manufacturers have failed to improve their products' resistance to forced entry, the true test of high security locking systems.
Consumers have consistently identified resistance to forced entry as the determining factor when purchasing a higher security residential lock. Nearly two thirds of all break ins are made through entrance doors.

Over the years, increased sales of wrap around reinforcing plates, better deadbolts and multi point locks prove that the demand for locks with greater security will continue to increase. More recently, electronic alarm systems have become much more popular, and our customers will often say that they feel protected with their alarm systems. These alarms will only announce intruders as they enter and do absolutely nothing to prevent a brute force attack against their doors. Despite industry and consumer focus on high security, doors are still secured with dead bolts and latches as they have been for hundreds of years. These locking methods, however, have proven less than adequate. Most deadbolt installations offer little resistance to kicks and other attacks, because they provide only 1" of surface contact with the door jamb. This creates an inherent weak point. A good kick to the door will typically break the frame and casing and may break the deadbolt away from the door, or both. An overwhelming majority of homes are built with wooden jambs and in swinging doors that make kick ins just as likely today as they were a decade ago. While we may often install good improvements to the strike and run longer screws well into the studs behind the door frame, the resistance to brute force attack upon the door is still not as good as it could be. It is possible to install residential high security locks without a deadbolt, using the MacLock 1500.
Forced entry has finally been addressed through a revolutionary blade locking concept. Maclock has designed its patent pending model 1500 blade lock, primarily for retrofit residential lock market. The Maclock 1500 replaces a deadbolt's single stress point with 28 inches of blade which transfer stress to steel strike plates mounted in the jamb. A deadlocking feature prevents entry by prying, and an extensive door/jamb contact of 28" makes jamb spreading nearly imposiible. Most significantly, impacts are dispersed across the 28" length, virtually eliminating door jamb and lock failure so common with deadbolts.
The Maclock Blade Lock has incredible customer appeal. It is completely unobtrusive. With the door closed, the 1500 cannot be distinguished from a deadbolt. Operation is simple and requires no instruction, because everyone knows how to operate a key and a thumb turn. And most importantly, the product's security value is immediately recognized. Even the most uneducated customer understands that the holding power of a blade far exceeds that of a bolt.
In-house testing by Maclock reveals that the impact resistance of the model 1500 is remarkable. Test procedures were established per ANSI/BHMA A156.5-1992 section 10.7 "Bolt Impact Test" protocol. A 99.2 pound bullet was attached to a rope  above the door and swung  at the door from various distances. In all cases, wood jambs and in-swinging  doors were used. Several residential deadbolts were tested along with the 1500 and all passed Grade 3 and Grade 2 tests.
Grade 1 impact testing produced very different results. In this test, the 99.2 pound bullet is swung at the door twice in a 45 1/2" arc, which equals 150 pounds of force. All deadbolts failed at grade 1. In one case, the bolt was bent at 90 degree angle and the lock failed. In another test the best residential lock was installed, and the strike was secured with four 3" screws extending through the jamb and into the studs. In this instance the bolt remained in tact, but the strike tore away from the jamb and the lock failed. The most common failure point  for deadbolts was the door jamb, which was usually splintered.
Maclock's model 1500, on the other hand, easily passed the Grade 1 impact test. In fact, after withstanding the two required Grade 1 blows, testing personnel decided to continue until failure. The door withstood 10 additional blows for a total of 12, or 600% of the required number of Grade 1 blows. After 10 Grade 1 blows, testing was stopped and the operation checked. On the thirteenth Grade 1 blow, the door face separated from the rail and stiles, and the door opened. But incredibly, neither the Maclock 1500 nor its strike were damaged. The force required to cause failure of the Matlock 1500 has still not been determined. These test results are outstounding, particularly when considering the type of door used- a 26 gauge steel clad and styrofoam door. By using the most inexpensive, weakest entry door on the market, Maclock was able to accomplish Grade 1 testing in a worst case scenario. The door flexed and was even slightly creased, but the lock held.
Installation of the Matlock 1500 is accomplished with the use of special jigs. The door and frame are routed for the lock channel and strike. Only one standard bore (2 1/8" at 2 3/4"backset) is needed. The lock's 1" wide range is also based on industry standards. The jamb rout is 3/8" deep, and unlike deadbolt holes, does not penetrate the jamb. Also, the 28" blade is long enough to provide unequaled impact resistance, yet short enough to utilize the pre-drilled 2 1/8" bore of nearly any door. Maclock trim hardware employs standard keying, and plugs with various manufacturer's keyways can be ordered to allow keying flexibility.
The Maclock 1500 is brass plated and available in both single and double keyed versions. Carefully engineered dimensional and performance specifications make the 1500 practical for use in over 90% of residential doors. Future products include a double door version and variation for a wide variety of special applications.
Maclock is currently establishing exclusive dealers throughout the United States and abroad. The Maclock Authorized Dealer network will consist of locksmiths, remodelers, and independent business owners who are assigned territories of several million people. Dealers are responsible for promoting, selling, installing and servicing Maclock consumer products within their territories. They have the option of performing installations themselves or contracting work to Maclock certified locksmiths or contractors. This distribution plan is designed to maximize promotional efforts and to ensure that Maclock installation and service standards are met.
Maclock Authorized Dealers are forward thinking business owners who demonstrate integrity, sound business practices and a strong commitment to quality. The critical factor in distributor selection is an ability to promote new products and a willingness to devote significant resources to advertising and marketing. In view of the consumer's demand for truly secure locks and Maclock's exclusive ability to fulfill that demand, the opportunity for Maclock Authorized Dealers is phenomenal.
Blade locking technology promises to be the most significant mechanical security innovation in recent history. Unauthorized key duplication and rekeying will likely remain important issues to locksmiths as well as commercial consumers. However, the definition of commercial high security will ultimately be reshaped by the revolutionary concept of blade technology. The demand for higher security, higher quality locks by residential customers, which had gone unanswered by manufacturers in the past, has finally been addressed.

Last Updated on Sunday, 31 January 2010 22:31
 
Sliding Patio Door Locks PDF Print E-mail
Residential Hardware
Written by Harold Fink, Locksmith, CRL CPS   
Saturday, 16 January 2010 10:58

SLIDING PATIO DOOR LOCKS

Means of entering through sliding patio doors and opening sliding patio door locks

The four most common means of entering through sliding patio doors or opening sliding patio door locks are use of key or inside latch, prying between the door and frame, lifting of the door from the track, and breaking of the glass. There are some sliding patio door locks, secure installation techniques for sliding patio doors, and considerations for sliding patio doors that make such means of entry harder.
Due to the light structure of most sliding patio doors and their locks, entry can be gained by simply applying pressure to the lock and strike area by prying with a large screw driver or pry bar. This means of entry is fast, easy, and in most cases so quiet it is almost undetectable. While several styles of strikes and locks are applied to these doors, the strikes are typically very light. Some of the heavier strikes are little match for a crow bar or pry bar.
Probably the all time most popular remedy for this type of entry is the old broom handle in the track. While there is no doubt as to the effectiveness of this method in preventing a pried opening, it falls short in protecting the door against being lifted.
Like prying, lifting is quick, simple and noiseless. Because most homeowners are not familiar with the design and construction of the patio door, they don't realize that the door is actually lifted and dropped onto the sliding channels of the doorway. And, by design, what goes in can come out. Just as they are lifted into place, these doors are just as easily lifted out of place. Even in the closed and locked position, although a bit more difficult, the door can be removed from its tracks.
For the burglar, the access is made by placing a crow bar or pry bar under the door and lifting the door of its track. While broom handles, or large dowel rods, when cut to length to fit snugly between the sliding door and the frame, will prevent sliding open of the active door, they won't prevent a lifting attack against the door. Again, except for the strike and the lock.
It should also be noted that patio doors are manufactured with either the sliding door on the outside or on the inside. Those mounted outside are the most prone to prying and lifting, and are the hardest to protect.
What about just breaking the glass and walking through the opening? To say that burglars won't break the glass because of the noise is a myth. The common misconception is that breaking the large pane of glass from a patio door is so noisy that doing so alerts the residents or neighbors. Realistically, however, the effect of tempering causes this glass to crumble into small pieces, and breaking is often very quiet.
In one instance, an apprentice of mine broke a patio door window with the new residents quietly talking in an adjacent room. The shattering of the glass was so quiet that they did not know it was broken until I informed them. It is even more unlikely that it can be heard while sleeping or by a next door neighbor. At this point, about the only way to offer some protection to large areas of glass is by providing an application of safety film. Offered by some manufacturers, this film makes it difficult to penetrate an opening by breaking the glass.
Generally it is feasible for a locksmith to do this type of installation, but efficiency with your time can be maintained by referring your customer to a qualified installer of such films. I normally refer this work to a qualified tint installer that I know is familiar with safety films and is willing to do on site work for residential customers. Also, when I refer a customer to any other compay, I qualify my referral by asking that they let me know how well the installation went if they do business.

For the most part, I now will recommend complete replacement of sliding patio door units from the rough opening with modern, energy efficient door units that swing in or out, and even offer two swinging doors, if necessary. This topic will be covered again in closing. For this article, we will cover what I consider to be interim solutions to the customer's overall security, should their budget not allow complete removal and replacement of the sliding patio doors.

For the locksmith, we are still armed with locks and techniques for deterring prying and lifting of sliding patio doors. In the case of the door that was the subject of our burglar, we have installed the Octopod by Major Manufacturing, as well as several other brands of locks. When properly installed, this patio door lock provides protection from both prying and lifting. One of the features of the octopod is that is utilizes a mortise cylinder lock, allowing the lock to be placed on nearly any keyway.
In our installation, we used a thumb turn. This was done to avoid the need for a key to open the lock during an emergency and for convenience. The disadvantage of this application is that without the positive and negative locking of the pin tumblers in a standard lock, a hard blow to the lock, door or bolt may, in some instances, cause the thumb turn to release and allow the bolt to drop to the unlocked position. Also, this application cannot be used if an extra bolt or strike hole is being drilled to allow venting.
The installation of this lock is extremely simple and fast. After assembling the lock, tightly close and lock the door using the existing lock. This makes sure that it is in the fully closed position for mounting the Octopod.
Place the Octopod on the latch side door stile, allowing enough height for the bolt to engage and disengage the header or upper frame of the door when it is locked and unlocked. Holding the unit onto the door, mark the mounting hole locations.
Carefully drill holes for the mounting screws. Be extremely careful. Remember that the glass extends back into the frame up to 3/4". If you are drilling too close, even nicking the glass with the edge of the drill will cause the glass to shatter. This scenario is what caused my able apprentice to witness the glass breaking into many thousands of pieces.
Mount the lock to the door. Either the bolt guide can be attached or the strike hole can be marked and drilled. We usually mark and drill the strike hole first. To make the mark simply thrust the bolt up into the door's header or top frame. A gentle tap on the bottom of the bolt allows the marking tip of the bolt to leave a nice, clearly visible mark on the surface of the header.
With the hole drilled, we fastened the bolt guide to the door. Location of this component is critical. The guide is to be set as close to the top frame as possible to prevent lifting the door out of the track. On the other hand, the top frame of the patio doors are not always level across the width of the door. In fact, many older doors may have sags at the middle of the door up to 3/8 ". Under such conditions, the guide may clear the frame while the door is shut, but hit the frame as the door is opening. To properly set the guide, hold it against the door at the highest position possible when the door is closed. Then, while holding the guide, slowly open the door to the full open position. If the guide hits the upper frame anywhere across the opening, it must be lowered.
Continue to hold the guide against the door and move the door to the position where the upper frame is at its lowest point. Set the guide approximately 1/16" below the frame at this point and mark the door for drilling the mounting holes. Check and measure twice, cut once.
Drill the hole and fasten the bolt guide to the door. Open and close the door, checking for proper operation and clearance. If desired, a second strike hole can be drilled, allowing the door to be locked open just enough for venting.
In some applications it may be necessary to shim the lock to clear various style door frames and trim. Shims are available to raise the Octopod lock and guide away from the door. The Octopod is available through authorized Major Manufacturing distributors.
Next, we cover the least a locksmith should do to prevent prying and lifting. The door used for this application is an outside slider, one of the more difficult types of doors to protect. To deter prying, we used the locksmith's version of the old broom handle-the Charlie Bar. This unit is inexpensive and easy to install. After cutting to length, our unit was fastened to the door and operational in 15 minutes.
Of course, also like the old broom handle, the Charlie Bar does not protect against lifting. So, we need to add another level of protection. In this applicaation, we simply added several large flat head screws to the upper track.
Three of these screws were added to the track, across the entire opening -one on each end and one in the center. The screws, 3-1/2 " in length, were fastened into the header, and then lowered to where they just cleared the door. Because the center of the upper rail on the door is hollow, we made sure that the screw and its head were off to the side. Here the screws ride directly above the edge of the upper door rail, and prevent it from being lifted.

Do not forget that in the larger picture, it may make perfect sense to suggest complete removal of the sliding patio door unit and replacing it with a modern, double insulated door pair that swings in or out, complete with frame, into the rough opening. The cost of this door pair, with one or even two active doors that swing in or out, may be affordable enough for your custmer to gain the added level of protection that you will afford them when the proper door locking hardware is installed. Ideally this door hardware will be of the same type as the rest of the house. Design considerations such as finish and lifetime of the finish, as well as space limitations inside or outside of the door opening are able to be addressed by replacing patio doors as well. If you are recommending high security products to your customer, this is usually what I will recommend when I see sliding doors on that same house. The benefits of energy efficiency, coupled with the convenience of using one keyway, and additional overall security offered by high security locks makes this recommendation the one that I am most likely to make, in the interest of my customer's complete security. Part of our properly making this suggestion is being well informed of how much such a door pair, complete with frame, would cost in addition to its installation. To forget to suggest the complete removal and replacement of the sliding patio door with a modern, energy efficient door pair would be doing a disservice to your customer, if you feel that it is within their budget to consider doing so. Any loss, due to compromise of a customer's home security, will far exceed the difference in cost between interim locking solutions for sliding patio doors and their complete replacement with much more secure, modern door pair assemblies. Additionally, the convenience that a qualified locksmith contributes in this situation is something that I find all of my customers appreciate. You should not rule out that many times what seems to be an obvious solution to us may not seem so obvious to others. Knowing what modern door pair assemblies sell for, and having the ability to perform the work, are components to providing solutions to our customers. This helps the customer make better decisions for their safey and security of their home and family, knowing what it would cost to make a considerable improvement in security of their home by replacing sliding patio doors.

Last Updated on Sunday, 31 January 2010 02:01
 
Atrium Lock Opening PDF Print E-mail
Residential Hardware
Written by Harold Fink, Locksmith, CRL CPS   
Wednesday, 13 January 2010 13:12

Opening Malfunctioning Atrium Locks

This is a common problem which will require the attention of a locksmith, and is your opportunity to rise to the challenge.

First, don't forget to rule out the possibility of opening the lock from the other side. Rule out all other doors as a means of entry and verify that access cannot be gained by using the other side of the door. What often causes the inoperability of these locks is poor alignment between latch bolt and/or dead bolt and strike, so take a moment to ask your customer if they remember having to push or pull on the door from the side you are standing. Oftentimes, by using the motion they have described, accompanied by lubrication of the profile cylinder used in these locks, you will be able to open the lock without any drilling at all.

If you are unable to unlock in this manner, begin to remove all the trim, including levers and spindle. First, don't assume that the lock must be drilled. It is entirely possible to actuate the mechanism even if it has not been operated in years, with a deliberate and conscious effort on your part to do several things at the same time.

It is possible to apply lubricant carefully through the spindle hole between spindle hub and lock case, though difficult, (or profile cylinder keyway, depending on handing and orientation) it is understood that only the lubricant that draws down into the case by gravity will actually find its way to the detent (about 1 1/2" from profile cylinder edge) that prevents the bolt from drawing into the lock case. A little bit in precisely the right location will often allow the key or thumb turn to work. Again, use your customer as valuable insight into what side may be exerting friction against the bolt as well. In cases where there is ample room for a tool bent at a right angle, use the key (or turn the plug with your screwdriver after picking) while assisting the dead bolt back towards the lock case with this tool at the same time. Sometimes a sharpened ice pick or other hardened tool can be sharpened to carefully work the bolt back into the case through the little bit of gap between door and frame, while you turn the profile cylinder. If you are attempting the opening from the inside of the door (locked in and locked out), use the same steps above with the thumb turn of the profile cylinder if it is of the single cylinder type. Last, attempt to turn with both the thumb turn on the inside while an assistant turns in same direction with operating key or picked plug from outside, all the while doing what is necessary to exert some pressure on the side of the door which will release any friction present against the dead bolt, allowing it to finally move past the strike and into the lock case.

If you absolutely cannot open the lock with the above recommendations, here's how I measured Atrium style door locks for when they malfunction and cannot be unlocked from either side of the door. Drilling should only be required when the lock cannot be opened from either side of the door, and needs to be done from the correct side of the lock case to have the deadbolt detent visible and reachable with your tools.atrium-lock-measurements-for-deadbolt-with-detent-lifted

First, to get to your point of reference, you have to imagine that you are looking at the edge of the door with the door open. As you look at the edge of the door, if the dead bolt is at the bottom with the latch bolt at the top, you will be drilling on the left side of the door, regardless of door handing, approximately 1-9/16" from the edge of the profile cylinder. If the deadbolt is on the top with the latch at the bottom, you will be drilling on the right side of the door, regardless of door handing, approximately 1-9/16" from the edge of the profile cylinder. Remember, you are only imagining that you are looking at the edge of the door, so there can be no arguments about what is left or right or the handing of the door. It is the easiest way for me to convey to you what side to drill on, knowing that the door is closed. If you drill on the wrong side of the door you would have to drill through the case and quite possibly ruin the lock to raise the detent, so get it right. Your drill point should be roughly in line with the keyway and 1-1/2" to 1-5/8" away from the edge of the cylinder, and 3/16" towards the door edge from the centerline of the cylinder, using the keyway as your centerline. If you have a replacement in your locksmith service vehicle, go get it and take a measurement of your own to confirm where you are drilling and what needs to be done to withdraw the dead bolt. Alternatively, if you can see the uppermost point of the faceplate trim of the lock, you can measure 5-1/4" down from the upper radius of the faceplate, as viewed through the gap between door and frame, and 1 5/8" from faceplate door edge  to the same point described above. Drill a 1/4" hole through the outer door skin to, but not into, the lock case, stopping when you see that you have reached the cavity between mortise in the door and the lock case. It is not necessary to penetrate the lock case to force the detent up and away from the bolt. I usually stop as soon as I know I have penetrated the outer door material only, being careful to leave the lock intact, leaving the deadbolt detent undisturbed in any way.

Reach through the hole with an ice pick or similar tool and pry up (or away from the deadbolt) on the deadbolt detent. While holding the detent, use a knife or small screwdriver to work the deadbolt back into the lock case. The Carolina roller, or keedex tool, works well to get behind the end of the bolt and speed up the process of pulling the dead bolt back into the lock case. Alternatively, you can use a piece of ice pick or worn out jeweler's screwdriver with about one half inch bent at a right angle at the end. Chuck it in your vise grip and carefully pry the bolt back into the case through the opening between door and frame. Put spindle and lever back into the spindle hole and open the door.

While far less likely, if the spring latch is the problem, measure down 2-9/16" from the top of the faceplate or visually sight the center of the latch. Draw a straight line 1-1/2" from the front of the faceplate. A similar measurement can be made that results in drilling 7/8" from spindle center towards top or bottom edge of lock and 5/16" towards door edge from spindle center. For the latch, you will need to drill on the side opposite to what is described above for the bolt. Drill a quarter inch hole where the lines intersect. Again, using an ice pick or similar tool, reach through the hole and work the latch back to open. Have a piece of plastic handy to help loid the latch back once you have it moved slightly, or have this handy for your assistant to use on the other side of the door if the door swings in towards you. Try to put spindle and lever back in spindle hole to assist with bolt and open the door. This situation is far less likely to occur than the atrium lock dead bolt failure first described above.

Again, having a lock case to look at is indispensible in this matter. If you are not stuck now, look at one. I have yet to encounter an atrium lock design that could not be opened using these measurements. Because the design is something of a standard, always having a replacement to measure from is going to be your best source of accurate measurements. Additionally, because the lock is not usually available at home centers, it is an opening, repair and/or replacement process that is worthy of a professional fee. With that said, it has been rare that I actually had to drill these locks, so make a deliberate attempt at the suggestions above, before drilling, before assuming the lock has to be drilled at all. This will allow the possibility of using the same lock, should your customer allow you to lubricate and service it, or if you have no replacement lock on your service vehicle, or if the cost of the replacement atrium lock is out of your customer's budget.

 

Last Updated on Saturday, 13 February 2010 20:04
 
Decorative Residential Hardware PDF Print E-mail
Residential Hardware
Written by Harold Fink, Locksmith, CRL CPS   
Tuesday, 12 January 2010 19:10

DECORATIVE RESIDENTIAL HARDWARE

Residential hardware can be much more than deadbolts and lock sets. In recent years, residential hardware has come along from the extremes of the lower-priced hardware used by tract builders to the higher-priced custom residential hardware used by speculation builders. Today, there are medium priced, good grades of hardware worth adding to your inventory of goods.
Many homeowners would like to have a dead bolt installed or a lockset rekeyed. To this customer, why not offer a better grade entrance handle or lockset?
Getting involved with better products can mean the potential for more referrals from your customers. Anyone who notices good hardware is likely to ask where it can be purchased.
It is always best to try to sell up to better quality, longer lasting hardware, rather than to sell down to satisfy a budget and only have to replace it much sooner. Many customers would gladly pay extra for a better grade hardware if the difference is explained accurately, and they know you will stand behind your product.
What is the difference? Commonly used residential grade hardware is made from die cast metal or is steel brass plated. This keeps the cost down, but may also lower durability and reliability. Some manufacturers even provide die cast cylinders which do not match the lock finish. A brass plated finish is not durable because the steel beneath the brass plating will rust and eventually show through the thin brass plating. The die cast parts wear quickly and unevenly. This grade is great for the tract builder, for apartment construction and low-rent housing, but not for a customer who wants an upgrade and apprreciates quality.
Most brass plated hardware is polished, then lacquered for protection of the finish. As soon as the lacquer wears or is scratched, the brass plating will oxidize and tarnish. The only solution is to replace the hardware or strip off the lacquer, repolish and re-lacquer, a costly and time consuming process. The better grade residential hardware is made from solid brass, which provides greater durability, a better finish, better appearance, with all the exposed parts matching in finish. Some manufacturers will even guarantee the brass finish for the life of the lockset. The lifetime finish will appeal to many homeowners who want to dress-up their front door. The interior parts of this grade of lockset are often made of metal construction and not die cast. These features offer greater durability.
Also, this better grade of lockset is available in a tubular design or cylindrical design. The cylindrical lock design is far superior because of the chassis construction. Springs in the chassis, along with the springs in the latchbolt, assure complete latchbolt retraction and extension. This cylindrical lock chassis design is the same design used in commercial grade locksets.
When you purchase an entrance handleset or lockset and dead bolt combination, or both, be sure to purchase from the same manufacturer. The finish and design will match, and your customer will be further satisfied. Keep a supply of manufacturer's catalogs handy to help you during a sales presentation. A mounted sample is also helpful, dusted and free from sratches. Most manufacturers will replace a mounted sample if it is worn or scratched from displaying, sometimes at no cost.
Manufacturers that offer better grades of residential locksets include Cal-Royal, Weiser, Kwikset, Baldwin and Schlage, among others.
You have definite advantage among your competition - a builder's hardware distributor, wholesaler, or home builder's supply- because you can install what you sell. Many homeowners, or even small builders, would gladly pay the extra cost for the installation. Bear in mind that they are upgrading their hardware and are seeking a professional.
Extra care is needed when installing this grade of hardware. You must not mar the finish in any way. Any scratch, nick, gouge, or any kind of blemish will stick like a sore thumb on a solid brass set. If you are to use power tools for installation, be sure the clutch is adjusted to the lowest setting to avoid avoid damaging the screw heads. If you use an electric drill to install the screws, you could "wring" out the phillips head, which could be readily noticeable. It will lead to a dissatisfied customer and the loss of potential refferals.
It is important to follow the manufacturer's template and instruction sheet during installation. If the template calls for a 2 1/8" diameter bore for the lockset or handle set and a 1 5/8" diameter bore for the deadlock, be sure to do so. Some installers tend to drill a 2" or 2 1/4" diameter bore for the deadlock, which can work, but is not acceptable in a first class installation. The deadlock has less of a chance to float in the bore if the hole is the correct size. If the manufacturer's template calls for a 2 1/8" diameter bore for the deadlock, it is important to do so and not to deviate from the manufacturer's instructions and template.
Installation and replacement sets will be on a door that is already finished, be it wood, metal or fiberglass. You can have 1/8" or 1/4" plywood or door skin on hand to place between your boring jig and the door face for protection. You can get this material from scrap hollow core wood doors-just cut a piece of the veneer off and keep it on hand. You'll need each piece to be about 4"x4", and they can be reused many times. I have also seen some locksmiths use packing materials such as thin closed cell foam to protect the door. For my jig, I carefully used an adhesive to attach leather to my jig, and it has lasted many, many years in protecting the face of the door from the jig. It is also wise to feel the door if it has recently been painted, as will often be the case, and be extra careful not to allow your jig to move at all and cause the paint to peel when you remove your jig.
When installing a handleset, be sure to clamp a piece of this material on the side of the door opposite to the spot where you are to drill the mounting screw hole at the bottom of the handle. This will prevent "split out" caused by the drill bit. Also drill a small size pilot hole first. Then follow through with the correct size drill bit. Be sure the hole is aligned and perpendicular to both sides of the door. A wallowed out hole certainly does not look very professional. One way to prvent this and to assure the hole is the correct size is to use one of the many excellent drill jigs available.
You don't have to stop after installing a good, bright brass handle set or lockset and deadbolt set. How about a brass kickplate (not a steel-brass plated or anodized brass aluminum kickplate) installed on either or both sides of the door? A kickplate can enhance the door's appearance. You may also suggest a solid brass door knocker, solid brass house numbers or even a solid brass mail box or mail slot. Another item you may consider is a matching escutcheon plate to fit behind the lockset and deadbolt set. This gives the appearance of a mortise lockset and dresses up the area between the lockset and dead bolt. Some entrance handle sets are made this way.
Take advantage of the chance to sell something better. The chance to offer your customer a larger variety and a better grade of door hardware is your opportunity to provide a much more reliable, longer lasting installation. Obtain some catalogs, increase your knowledge of products available, and watch your sales justify your time and investment.

Last Updated on Sunday, 31 January 2010 01:50
 


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